Saturday, February 28, 2015

Work has started on the super structure

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The axle work continues, just not by me. Due to me being busy with work and not wanting to mess with re building the dually axle I procured, I happily delivered it to JCM Equipment so they could put bearings in the axle. This axle has turned in to a loosing deal, but Im too far in to it to call it quits at this point. The easiest way to explain the dual wheeled axle I got for free is that this has been  the most expensive "free"  Ive ever found. I should probably end this thought with a Gumpism and say that "this is all I have to say about this right  now"

So, while I wait for the axle to  be picked up from JCM, I started work on the wheel house and salon, which I will now call the super structure. All the parts for the super structure were scattered around the barn years ago, and it took me half a Saturday to round them up and inventory everything I actually  had some of the long frame pieces stashed away in the roof trusss. I found everything, and checking my stash against the working drawings, every piece is accounted for.

After inventorying all the parts, the first order of business was to drill all the frames for the bolts that would be used to fasten the framing timber with. One of the mistakes I made on building the hull was to not drill all t he frames before I erected them. Drilling on the drill press will save me hours of work. Using 1/4" bolt is what I plan on doing, so I drilled all the holes to 5/16. The overage gives me plenty of room for paint and will help prevent skinning up the hole when I drill for the timber. After I drilled all the holes, I used a counter sink to ease the edge and give me a more paint friendly hole.

When you break the super structure down in to its most simple form, its basically a box. Four sides with a roof. Because of having to build the boat in two pieces, it also made the most sense to build the super structure as panels. Assembling the panels went very quick. Because all the parts were cut on a CNC machine, the accuracy of the parts is amazing. The really nice thing about having the metal cut via CNC is that the designer also had all the layout lines burned in to the metal. My appreciation to Bruce Roberts and Hal Whitacre on their attention to detail. A nice surprise I discovered while assembling these four panels is that the designer gave each panel a slight outbound crown. The crown is slight enough, about an inch over the length of the 16 salon panel  you see hanging from my skid steer loader, but not so severe as to interfere with the window installation. I dont know the reason for giving these panels a slight crown, but my guess is that the crown puts some tension on the metal and will help it to fair up much nicer.

The salon skin showed up at the shop with the window openings already cut out. The wheel house has the window rough openings burned in to the metal, and only the door openings are cut out. Im going to wait until I have the panel welded in place before I cut out the windows.  I already have the windows on site, I just want to wait  until the panel is in place as this will be help keep the panel shape as per design.

You can see on this picture below how the wheel house sheathing arrived at my place. The precision of the CNC plasma cutting is amazing. As you can see from this picture, the wheel house side is in three pieces. All I have to do is grind a bevel in the outside joints that will be ground flush. Turn the pieces over, kick them together so they line up, and tack them. The next step is to put the longitudinal stringers on the layout lines that were laser burned in to the metal and tack them in place. Making sure the sheathing is tight to the longitudinal stringers assures the panel will take the shape the of the design. Once all the longs are tacked in place the frames are fit over  the longs and tacked in place. The frames have all the notches cut in them including the mouse holes so no water can get trapped and start a crevice corrosion situation. The longitudinal stringers were also cut by the CNC machine so the designed shape is formed by the longs.  On this size project, with all the framing I had to do, I have yet had an situation where no part fit any less than perfect. 

All the panels are assembled and stacked against the barn wall while I begin taking the boat off of the building cradle and sitting her on the axles. JCM has told me the axle will be ready for me to pick up mid to week. I have to make a trip to the steel yard and pick up some square tube to build stanchions for helping support the boat on the axles. I hope to have her sitting on the axles after this coming weekend.

Im feeling pretty good about finally being able to assemble the super structure. Its a big piece of structure, but I feel as if it will go together quickly and without any major hiccups. I am pretty sure I have a plan that will allow me to do some good layout and build the super structure so that it will mate with the hull in a good way.

Cheers


















Cheers
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Wooden Sailboat Plans Recomended Download All of the boat plans are very detailed and easy to understand so even someone with zero experience can start building a boat today! See more

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Have You Ever Spent Vacation On A Home Boat? Its a Great Experience For Entire Loved ones.

Renting a houseboat or possibly a cabin cruiser which combines a self catering accommodation with transport gives a very intriguing way for holiday makers who need to explore a nation making use of its waterways. . On erento, you can now use international searches to strategy your trip ahead of time hiring a houseboat to care for your living and transportation needs.

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My Swim

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I took a canoe day trip last spring that ended in a swim -- not an epic one, but the biggest that Ive experienced, and the first for my son.

I manned the stern of my Adirondack St. Regis, a 17-foot Kevlar cruiser; my son Max, then 10, manned the bow. Friend Tim was in the stern of his canoe, an Old Town Penobscot 16, with his son, Paul, also 10, in bow. The previous year, this same team had done a 6-day trip on the St. Croix River, between Maine and New Brunswick. This time, we were on the St. George River in midcoast Maine. It was our first trip of the year -- kind of a warmup for a weeklong trip on the Allagash planned for later in the year.

We put in at Seventrees Pond in Union, and the first nine tenths of the trip was flatwater: first the pond, then the river. Several hundred yards above the planned takeout at Payson Park in Warren, the river goes over a steep shelf, which we portaged. Thereafter, it was a very bony Class II. Lots of pushing against the bottom, half getting out of the boat and scooting along with one leg still in the boat, banging rocks. Although my St. Regis is a nice Kevlar boat, it isnt really made for this kind of work, but I long ago got over the pain of scratches and dings.

At a point where there was more than enough water to float the boat and plenty of current, we got sideways to a rock and in an instant we capsized upstream. I think I could blame Max for leaning the wrong way, but in fact it happened too quickly for me to really know. The boat then swung with the current and freed itself from the rock. Max was gasping and upset; somehow he was downstream of the boat, and I told him to get upstream of it, then reminded him of the "noses and toes" approach to swimming in current (keep the nose and the toes facing up, with feet pointing downstream) and he took the position. (Max and Paul had practiced this on the St. Croix and had much fun doing it.) I grabbed the boat and tried to maneuver it, but soon the current became too strong, too fast, and I had to let go of it and my paddle and just watch out for myself.

This was Maxs first capsize; he was scared and shouting frequently but following the drill. Somehow, he quickly ended up on the opposite side of the river and there was no way that I could assist him in any way -- the strong current was dragging me, too, over shallow rocks and through holes down my side of the river. I was terribly scared for Max, but all I could do was keep my eye on him and confirm that he continued to head downriver with the current, apparently OK. If he had somehow gotten into real trouble, I could have done nothing. I did look back and note that Tim and Paul continued to follow us in their boat, which was some comfort.

There were a few painful bumps on the tailbone and several dunkings, but the noses-and-toes approach worked as advertised, and I used my feet to fend myself off the worst of the rocks. Even attempting to move to the bank was out of the question -- the current was just too strong to do anything but flow with it.

Eventually the current slackened, just in front of the planned takeout at Payson Park. Max came to rest on a little sandy island, and TIm and Paul quickly picked him up and deposited him on the bank. I found my footing and managed to walk to the bank. A woman who was with her children at the park took Max in hand, put him in her van and cranked up the heat and got him into dry clothing.

Tim and I grabbed my boat and carried it up the bank -- it was terribly bashed up; gunwales separated from the hull, dents, cracks all the way through the layup, one flotation chamber partially torn out. We found two of the three paddles -- the missing one was a lovely Shaw & Tenney model that Id used only a couple times.

I was somewhat shaken up, and Max more than somewhat -- not enough, Im glad to report, to interfere with the Allagash trip later that year. We were both wearing good PFDs (of course), and its hard to imagine the stupidity of anyone who would put himself into that kind of situation without them -- it would have been immensely more difficult and scarier without flotation. It had been a drizzly day, so we were wearing raingear, which might have provided just a hint of thermal protection -- certainly not much. The water was a bit chilly, and we felt it, but wetsuits probably would have been overkill. Maybe Im kidding himself here. Had this swim occurred away from civilization and been just a few hundred yards longer, hypothermia might have been a possibility.

It was a revelation how much damage a few hundred yards of shallow Class II could do to a Kevlar boat. I took it to a fiberglass pro whose repair estimate was about the same as the cost of a new boat. I kept looking, however, and found a fiberglass worker who does some work on the side. He did a nice job on the structural matters and added a minimum of additional weight -- I havent weighed it, but my guess is less than 5 pounds.

The gelcoat is another story. Normally, gelcoat is sprayed into a polished female mold before the layup begins on the inside of the gelcoat, so a nice smooth surface results. In this case, the gelcoat was sprayed with a gun onto the boats exterior laminate surface, leaving a very slightly pebbled finish. A racer couldnt tolerate it this surface texture, but its fairly fine-grained and I doubt it will seriously affect the boats efficiency. I did take the opportunity to change the boats color, from green to white and it looks very nice if you dont get too close and notice the pebbles. For a total bill of $500, it was a reasonable way to rescue a pretty nice boat. I now realize its not at all suited to whitewater, however, so Ive got my eyes open for a plastic tub.

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Friday, February 27, 2015

Boat Course

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Build A Boat Course

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Wooden Boat Festival Goolwa

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Some from this last weekend Goolwa South Australia mostly from the biennial Wooden Boat Festival wooden boat festival goolwa. Has any one seen this boat known arsenic Janice it was my marvelous dads been trying to bump it for 10 long time to corrupt it plump for herd it might be inwards the Inman valley on angstrom unit trailer. 20 views Goolwa wooden boat festival goolwa SA Sturmabteilung Wooden gravy boat Festival held atomic number 49 Goolwa biennially. Goolwa Wooden Boat Festival 2013. 13 likes 0 talking about this 91 were here.


Vitamin A wondrous weekend celebrating wooden boats with music on water events fireworks and entertainment for wooden boat festival goolwa. The Festival held within the Goolwa Wharf Precinct provided a weekend filled with with wooden river vessels from elegant yachts to streamlined classic speedboats. Steal Racing at The wooden boat festival goolwa S.A. aside Gail mew gull equally a Greetin. Goolwa Wooden Boat Festival February 2013. All photos OMD Oly 12 50 or Pany 100 300. SubscribeSubscribedUnsubscribe 0. Wayne Seagrim 5 videos. Fresh from SubscribeSubscribedUnsubscribe 0. Jane Tarrant 165 videos.


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Recomended Plywood Plans

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Design 1710 C26 Rumbuster

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Last week we posted an article about hull #021 of the Swan 36 class, the beautiful s/y Seamróige. Here we have a wooden sister, Rumbuster, which is hull #026 of the entire lineup of design #1710 (this excludes the Swan 36 numbering sequence).

The owner of Rumbuster dropped us a note and included the beautiful image of her seen above, courtesy of Beken of Cowes.  The image looks like it was taken in the Solent but could not be the start of the Fastnet Race as it was not held in that year.  Nice image.  Shes being pressed about as hard as she can.

Our records say Rumbuster was built by "Port Hamble" but in my mind that could mean a couple of yards in that area.  Perhaps the owner will set us straight?

Heres a copy of her original rating certificate.  I include it as it is interesting in that it shows her scantlings.


In any event she is a beautiful boat.  She makes her home near Oban on the west coast of Scotland.  The image below was taken off Eilean Dubh Mor, part of the chain known as the Inner Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland.

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Thursday, February 26, 2015

More About Quicksilver Design 2158

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A former owner sent us this great sailing shot of Quicksilver, the 1973 Admirals Cupper from new Zealand.  Great photo.  He also sent us this interior image.  Thanks very much for sharing this with our readers.

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Foredeck finish work

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Now that I have finish paint on the fore deck, I had a few bits I could wrap up and get them off of ye ole list.

The first item to wrap up was the door on the pulpit. This is one of those items I have to give an old WTF was I thinking when I designed this. The door part is OK as this will make a nice place to store anchor lines, dock lines and even a shore power cord. The WTF thing comes for why I put all those bolt holes in the door. All I needed was one bolt that I could use a large wing type bolt to hold the door fast. Im thinking I was planning on storing air in this locker, and maybe I was afraid the air thieves were going to stop by and get some of the old O2 I was keeping safely behind door number one. ??? I also had someone ask about the notch in the side of the pulpit for my air hose connection and my wash down hose connection. Heres a better picture of the notch I created in the side of the pulpit. I need to find nice looking flush, black plastic caps I can silicone in to fill all those bolt holes. The pulpit is framed out of 1 1/2" stainless pipe, and stainless plate was used for sheathing. Everything on the pulpit is stainless steel, so when I dont have to worry about rust from chipping paint while we handle the anchoring gear. I notched the bottom of the frame so I could easily hose out under the pulpit and make it easy to maintain. I had originally set this up for a chain windlass and I was afraid that water could get down into the pulpit via the chain hawser. The handle for the door is 1" stainless bar that I bent, and also doubles the step to get up on the pulpit. The door is hinged with fixed pins that I fabricated on the lathe so the door opens 180 degrees. I might need to add some gasket material to the door in case it vibrates or rattles... well see about that. I wrapped the handrail around the pulpit to help keep anyone on board when the need arises to to climb out on the pulpit and deal with something.

The other item I was able to finish was installing the guest cabin hatch. Early in the build, I had planned on making my own hatch. After I had the wood work finished in the guest cabin, I decided to use a commercially made hatch. Instead of re doing the hatch coaming, I modified it a bit and bought a Lewmar Ocean Hatch. I like the hatch, and it seems to be well made and robust enough for what I intend to do. Theres really not much I dont like about the hatch. It dogs down tight and compresses the gasket, it has adjustable tension on the hinges to hold it open in any position one would want, its lockable, and it opens from the outside as long as it is not locked. Im glad I did not try to fabricate this hatch.

The third item I have completed are the vents for the guest cabin. These vents are what I would call a dorade style vent. Because of the Portuguese bridge, and the high bulwarks, it made no sense to have the vents on the deck. To get the vents up where the air is going to be moving, I welded six inch pipes to allow the vents to be higher. The dorade end of this contraption is some boxes I fabricated out of stainless, and that I can bolt to the pipe/bracket/pad I welded to the deck and Portuguese bridge. The basic layout of this box is that the air enters the vent, and goes travels down the six inch pipe into the cabin. I welded a bulkhead in the frame to stop water from getting down the six inch pipe. I also held the pipe proud high of the frame as another damn to discourage water from getting in the boat. If things get real ugly, the cowl vents can be quickly unscrewed from the box and water tight deck plates then screw in. On the bottom of the box, below the cowl vent intake, I drilled a one inch hole in the bottom of the bracket. This hole is to allow water to drain out. To stop wasps from nesting in the box, I glued a piece of screen over the hole using some clear silicone caulk. Another reason I held the pipe proud high of the bracket, was so that I could use some hose clamps to secure more screen over the pipes to keep the bugs out of the cabin. I want to make sure that I can keep air flowing in and out of the boat while we are away from it while keeping it secure and weather tight. It also goes without saying that the more passive ventilation there is on board, will make the boat a happy place to be. When were under way, the Lewmar hatch will be closed and the Dorade vents will be supplying air to the guest cabin. Im not a 100% happy with the way I came up with ventilating the boat in this particular area, and I wish the designer would have offered a design for this. I think its good that the cowls are up high where the air can actually get to them, but Im not 100% keen on how I did it. I think in terms of being hatefull to look at , the pipes are not too hatefull, but it could have been better. I was going to make the intakes integral with the Portuguese bridge, but this conflicted with the interior layout of the guest cabin. An integral intake would have also been difficult to fabricate, and would have been more difficult to paint. The Dorade boxes are held in place with four bolts, and are very easy to remove for future maintenance. The dorade boxes are also maid of stainless steel. All in all, I think the pipes work good, but Im just "OK" with how they look. One thing I can say is this design is extremely robust, and in a worse case scenario, I have another place to tie the boat off from. Im thinking after I launch, the pipes might be a good location to weld a bit too, and hang dock lines off of. I had a fan blowing on me while I was working on the installing the cowl vents. Once I was finished, I left the fan blowing, and went in to the cabin to see how much air was making it in. I was pleasantly surprised by how much flow was entering the cabin. It looks like the design will work. I think Im going to re paint the cowls, and make the inside the same green as the hull. I took a picture of the cowls looking at them from the wheel house so you could see a little more clear how I wanted them above the structures to get air flowing.

Im going to keep working aft, and knocking off these easy to complete finishing jobs. This work probably goes five times as quick while the boat is in the barn and all the comfort tools are handy. All this work needs to be done anyway to have her weather tight for THE TRIP TO THE LAUNCH SITE. Next item to finish is the Portuguese bridge wooden cap, hang the Portuguese bridge door, and install the waster fill ports, and the gray water pump out port.

Cheers
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Clinker Built Rowing Boat Plans

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The Great Loop Cruise The Dream!

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One of my future goals is to do The Great Loop Cruise.Youre probably asking," What is this Great Loop Cruise?" Thats a great question and one I enjoy discussing.The Great Loop Cruise,is simple a navigable loop that encompasses the eastern US and Canada with many interesting points in between.Many people dont know about this watery loop that has mostly existed since our country was founded.The following pic is from Captain Johns Website. I will be referencing his site, and giving credit to his site, for my first peak into the Great Loop cruisers world.



According to Captain Johns website,there are roughly 24,000 miles of water ways to be explored.Thats more area than a person can reasonably cover in a life time.My plan is to visit a few chosen places while taking in what I can.I would like to make the US loop in 12 to 14 months.If I can add in the Canadian loop,Id like to extend my time to 16 to 18 months.

Im not really fond of marina life.I am sort of a recluse.Its not that I dont like people.I just enjoy more face to face time with a few people.The hustle and bustle isnt for me.So I would be gunkholing a lot and fishing some.

Oh wait,you dont know what gunkholing is?Oh how wonderful this is.A lot of boat owners do this and dont know the "boaty" term for it.Gunkholing is simply cruising shallow water areas,usually in coves,and camping out,or over nighting.Wiki has a pretty good gunkholing definition.

Ok,back to the Great Loop.To do this, and keep cost as low as possible,I will be gunkholing instead of docking at marinas all the time.Most marinas have dinghy docks that are free.So Ill be anchoring, or dropping the hook, in a secluded cove and taking the dingy to port as much as possible.

There are many adventures to be had as The Great Loop passes through sooo many places,both large and small.If New York City isnt your thing, there are smaller cruiser friendly cities such as Oriental North Carolina.If you can imagine it,its probably somewhere around the Great Loop.I would say that most of the Great Loop is accessible by vehicle,if you would like to visit some areas before cruising there.Another interesting feature of the Great Loop are the historic sites.Remember US history and our country be founded by people come and going by water.Well there are a good number of historical sights around the Great Loop that offer lots of interesting entertainment.

So here we are on a boat and YIKES! We need to resupply.How will it be done?That dingy we carry can ferry people and provisions.I know youre thinking,but how will you get the freshly procured provisions back to port, to be ferried to the boat?Well,I walk a lot and I can walk far.A 10 mile loop around town getting provisions, with stops along the way, isnt a big deal.I do have other options.I love those crazy things that kids no longer partake in.What are they called?Oh yeah,bicycles.I own many and will own many more.Bicycle trailers have become cheap and quite large.One I was looking at was almost the size of a compact car trunk with a 180lb load capacity.The admiral, aka wife, and I can potentially haul 360lbs of provisions back to the boat.Think about it.360 pounds of groceries,paper products,and bath supplies.Plus the bicycles are easier to pedal than walking, while pulling a cart, that maybe capable of hauling 50 to 80 pounds of supplies.

Now that were ready to go,how shall we do it?Which way to go?Most do the Great Loop counter clockwise,or anti clockwise for those that may not use the US terminology.Im in South Carolina,so I would start by heading north up the coast around the first of April.I would like to land in the upper New England area around late June to early July.If it works out this way,I could spend July and August cruising the Canadian Loop.The end of August and September would be spent cruising the Great lakes and getting ready to make the run down the Tombigbee to the lower Mississippi River.Late fall should be the time to work my way back south to the Gulf of Mexico.This way I can spend the cold winter in warmer waters while working my way around Florida and back up the coast to home.

I guess I should have mentioned the Intracoastal waterway or ICW often referred to as the ditch.This is mostly a natural route protected from the Atlantic Ocean.Think of it as a highway for boats from Florida to New England.Its the chosen route for boating snowbirds heading south for the winter.

Believe it or not,there is an association for the madness.Its called Americas Great Loop Cruisers Association.Its better know as the AGLCA.I highly recommend joining the AGLCA.There is a wealth of knowledge there that can help with trip and route planning.People that are inexperienced at operating a boat, or being in big water, can usually connect with, and travel with a group doing the Great Loop.At any time,you can break away from the group without drama.

In any event,thats my dream and the goal that I am working toward.I plan to build the boat that I will cruise the Great Loop aboard.Health and finances willing,I will spend the end of my life cruising the Great Loop.





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Thursday, February 19, 2015

Design 2042 C1 Antilla 6 6

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The Antilla 6.6 is a fiberglass production yacht that was built in Finland by AA Boats and introduced in 1971. It is a 1/2 tonner based on a previously built one-off. Its a great looking little boat.

Here are the plans.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 30-0"
LWL 22-5"
Beam 9-4"
Draft 5-4"
Displacement 7,934 lbs
Ballast 3,747 lbs
Sail Area 452 sq ft


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Wednesday, February 4, 2015

A Day at the Races

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Another early start on a promising winters morning. The temperature was a lot milder today at 4*C and a forecast of 3 to 4.
Leaving St Athan the sky was blood red on the horizon, I raced down the Sully in an attempt to catch it before it faded.
The plan today, Steep Holm on the last of the flood tide then up to Flat Holm before taking the tide back to Sully. Taran suggested the paddle today.

Checking the charts I wasnt sure if it was possible, it was a pretty steep ferry angle but we thought we would give it a go.

Sully sound was flowing well but we managed to power our way to the south of the island and paddle up around the back to make best use of the race.
A bit blurred but you can just make out taran amongst the washing machine waves!
We hoped out into an eddy before rejoining the race taking us just short of Llavernock Spit Buoy.



This was the last we would see of the sun today as it disappeared up into a band of thick cloud.

Somehow we managed to reach the tip of Steepholm. The current was racing well around rudder rock.

We landed on what remained of the beach under the Inn on Steep Holm for a very short break.
Do not try this in a glass boat!
Leaving Steep Holm it was a race against time to get to Flat Holm. The tide had already turned about half hour before we got to Flat Holm making progress slow. Another race was flowing around the top of the island but we managed to eddy our way around to the beach.
We stopped for lunch to allow the tide to pick up speed through the arch next to the slipway.
We played about for a bit before hopping on the race taking us rapidly to the bottom of the island. It was a speedy ride back to Sully and another sharp ferry glide. We picked up yet another race/overfall just past Lavernock Spit Buoy.

The flow in the sound was non existent and we floated for a bit in silence. It was back to the vans for some tea and biscuits to celebrate another great day out.
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